Monday, May 20, 2019

Villages (Greece 4)

Today we decided to visit some of the villages which we passed on the road to Chora yesterday. First off was Ano Pitrofos (upper Pitrofos), which amongst other things is the home of the Cyclades Olive Museum. Of course, the museum was closed yesterday - that's what happens when one visits Andros out of season.

Apart from the lovely houses (and the cars - from where do the owners get the money?), there was not a soul to be seen. I had a few ideas why this might be so: (a) a neutron bomb exploded which killed all the people but left the buildings standing; (b) all the residents are zombies: they sleep during the day but come out at night; (c) they were all in the local taverna. Option C seems to be correct.

As we wandered around the village, we came across a stream running down the hill, children riding on donkeys and a goat having a rest. Only after taking the photograph did we notice that the goat was tethered (one can see the rope in the lower left hand corner).

There was also a lovely church there which appeared be be closed - unusual for a Sunday.

After departing from Ano Pitrofos we set off for the Foros cave which is by the village of Alandino. This cave has stalagmites and stalactites and so is a must. Unfortunately, it is fairly difficult to access the cave: one has to walk up a long series of steps then walk another half kilometer along a rough path composed of slate and basalt. When we finally arrived at the cave, there was a group of children along with their mothers waiting. It was not possible to know how many had already been in the cave and how many were waiting, but after about an hour, their last group came out.

Now we were faced with a dilemma: out of season, tours are held 'by arrangement only', and we hadn't arranged anything. Fortunately some Greek women turned up and entered a discussion with the guide, who thought that we were together with these women. Eventually we explained that we had come separately and that we would like a tour in English. We paid our €5 entrance fee, donned hard hats, picked up torches then descended in to the cave.


It is always interesting to see such caves, although this one was a relatively poor example. It had also been vandalised before the authorities stepped in and started protecting the cave. Incidentally, the picture is not mine: one is not permitted to take photographs within the cave. It comes from here.

After exiting the cave. we had the long walk back to the car. As it was already 2:45pm, the chances of finding somewhere open to eat on a Sunday afternoon were minimal, so we drove back to the hotel (this takes nearly an hour). There we had an impromptu meal of cheese sandwiches and tea. followed by showers and a rest period.

By the time we were ready to do something in the evening, it was already quite late so I was no longer tempted by having a fish meal in Batsi. Instead we drove to Gavrio again, absorbed the atmosphere and ended up having toasted cheese sandwiches and hot chocolate. This too is a pleasurable activity!

I should have noted that today was very much a low energy day for me: I was ill with a viral infection after Independence Day, spending a few days in bed with a fever, then returning to work and coughing very hard. I didn't want to make to much of a thing about this as this happened just a few days before we left for Greece; also I seemed to be better. But the cough has returned and today I just felt lousy. 

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